Stop Rust Spray
(800) 625-9577

Frequently Asked Questions

What people ask about a single truck, trailer, or machine.

Getting It Done

How long does a single unit take?

Usually one day, sometimes half. The spraying itself is minutes; prep and masking are the job. If you do the wire wheeling, degreasing, and washing yourself beforehand, an applicator can often turn a trailer or pickup around in an afternoon.

Can I spray it myself?

Not realistically for one unit. The material gels within seconds of the two components meeting and needs a heated plural-component rig — serious capital equipment, not a rental item. You can do all the prep yourself, which is where most of the labour is. For a yard full of equipment, the arithmetic changes and it is worth a conversation.

How do I find somebody near me?

Tell us your location and what you have, and we will point you at an applicator in your region who runs our material. Jobs coming through this site get routed that way as a matter of course — you do not have to buy anything from us to get the referral.

What does a small job cost?

It varies with size, condition, and how much prep is needed, so anyone quoting a flat number without seeing photos is guessing. Send pictures and your location and we will give you a realistic range before you commit to anything.

Prep & Condition

Does all the rust have to come off first?

No — everything loose has to come off. Tight, firm rust that will not lift with a putty knife can stay and gets sealed under the coating, where it goes inert once it is dry and away from oxygen. Loose scale and flaking must be removed, or the coating comes off with it later.

The frame has been on salted roads for years. Does that matter?

It matters a lot. Salt has to be pressure-washed off and, on anything serious, verified below 7 µg/cm². Coating over salt pulls moisture through the film and lifts it, and then the rust carries on underneath where you cannot see it. This is the step most people skip and most later failures trace back to.

There is a hole in it. Can you spray over that?

No. A coating over a hole is still a hole. Perforated or badly thinned metal needs patching or replacing first — then the whole area gets coated. Tap suspect spots with a small hammer: a dull thud or a dent means the steel is gone there.

Can it go over the paint that is already on it?

Usually, if the paint is sound, with 7001 primer over it first. Test it by pulling a strip of tape off hard — if the old paint comes with it, that area needs to be stripped. Where it is well bonded, the primer handles adhesion and stops bleed-through.

Living With It Afterwards

How soon can I use it?

Tack-free in under a minute and back to work typically within the hour. There is no overnight cure and no second coat, which is why single-unit jobs can be same-day.

What if I gouge it later?

It gets abraded, primed with 7001, and resprayed — a quick fix, but one that needs the applicator back rather than a can from your shelf. In practice, at 20 to 80 mils most things that would go through paint do not go through this.

Will it fade in the sun?

Yes. The standard product chalks and dulls in direct sunlight over a few seasons. It is purely cosmetic — the rust protection is unaffected. If appearance matters on a show vehicle or something customer-facing, ask about an aliphatic topcoat.

Can I get non-slip on a deck or ramp?

Yes. Sprayed polyurea has natural texture at higher build, and the finish can be adjusted for more grip on trailer decks, ramps, and horse trailer floors. Mention it when you book the job so the applicator plans the pass accordingly.

Question About Your Own Job?

Send a photo and ask. You will get a real answer, including when the answer is that you do not need this.

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Find Out What Your Job Takes

Tell us about your project and we will follow up with product details, technical data sheets, and pricing.